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Historic Pattern Confusion - Time Warp Tailors

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March 3rd, 2010

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09:30 am - Historic Pattern Confusion
Hello, I've been trying to make a tailcoat for my boyfriend for his birthday. I found some really fabulous books in the library (namely, "Men's Garments 1830-1900" by R.I. Davis) that have detailed drafting patterns and instructions.
However, I'm very confused about how to proportionally adjust them for a different size- how to turn the drafting patterns into sized sewing patterns I can use. All of the patterns are based on the "average man," at 5'9" and chest girth of 38 in., but I need to alter them for someone who's 5'11" with a chest girth of 45 in.
Furthermore, each pattern instruction says "Scale is half the chest=19 in." but I can't quite figure out what this means. I guess the pattern is based on the half back measurement and the others are in scale with it, but I don't understand how to practically use that information based on my boyfriend's half back measure, which is different.

Any advice/ideas?

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